Dumplings, onion pancakes, and noodle soup make a lovely breakfast, and Central China Restaurant in Bellaire Chinatown has all three. Lamb dumplings (which are called “mutton dumplings” on the menu) are particularly tasty. Scallion pancakes rock with a generous blob of hot chiles in oil smeared all over them. The bill for my meal of hot tea, scallion pancakes, mutton dumplings, and beef noodle soup with choy was under $15, and there was enough food for at least two people. The noodle soup ended up in my fridge.

Central China at 9390 Bellaire in Chinatown opens at 7:30 a.m. Bring your own newspaper—all the reading material here is in Chinese.

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