On a recent visit to Rioverde Taqueria y Restaurante, I ordered the enchiladas huastecas, a very simple dish with big flavor. Made by folding warmed (preferably in a shallow pan of oil till pliable) corn tortillas over queso fresco so they look like grandma’s homemade quesadillas, the enchiladas are then topped with a spicy salsa verde and more queso.

Rioverde Taqueria y Restaurante
5502 Telephone Road
713-847-0101 

I wouldn’t recommend this dish for anyone who is not a fan of queso fresco. The tangy, slow-to-melt cheese, made from a combination of cow and goat’s milk, was part of every bite – except for a single scoop of the deliciously soupy frijoles refritos.

A thin, tender cut of grilled bistec was served with the enchiladas and added an extra kick to the plate. The jalapeño salsa that topped the enchiladas was my favorite part. My eyes eventually began to water as I made my way through the meal (the waitress did ask whether I wanted it “picosito”). I wish there had been more of it. I like to full-on cry when I eat.

The style of this dish is native to the region of Mexico known as “La Huasteca,” which spans from the northern tip of Veracruz to the southern part of Tamaulipas and into sections of the states of Hidalgo, Puebla, Querétaro, and San Luis Potosí. Rioverde is a city in the state of San Luis Potosí. This region of la huasteca is called “huasteca potosí” and is known for its beautiful untouched jungles and waterfalls, as well as the music and dance known as “huapango.” 

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