A couple of sweetbreads tacos, a roasted jalapeño, and a Mexican Coke make a lovely breakfast. The mollejas tacos at Taqueria Tacambaro are becoming the stuff of legend in the food blog world. Even my dear friend Misha, a fine-dining enthusiast, finds the rustic version of sweetbreads at this lowly taco trailer superior in flavor and texture to the cleaned and pressed sweetbreads found in many French restaurants.
I like Maria's mollejas best at around 10:30 in the morning when they are lightly cooked--moist inside with just a little crispiness on the outside. By 2 pm in the afternoon, the sweetbreads are getting darker in color, and a little dry and overdone.
This morning, I ate my first mollejas taco with just a squeeze of lime. Then I poured some of Maria's distinctive dried chile sauce on my paper plate and dipped the other taco in the salsa. Both were delicious.
While many of us think of food trucks as a recent development on the Houston food scene, Maria Rojas, the head chef at the Taqueria Tacambaro trailer, told me that her trailer has been operating in the same spot for 17 years now. (The trailer takes occasional vacations and one or two days off each week.)
Visit Maria's trailer in the parking lot behind Canino's in the Farmers Marketing Association complex on Airline, just south of 610 while you are shopping for produce. But be forewarned, there is a large crowd of regulars that come to eat lunch at this trailer every day, so come early or be prepared for a wait.