The intersection of Homestead and Crosstimbers is torn to shreds right now. This makes finding JW's Cajun Boudin Hut a little difficult amidst the dust devils spawned by piles of concrete rubble and the dismantled driveways that play merry hell on your suspension. But don't be deterred; if there are two truths in Houston, after all, they are that construction is constant and good food is always worth the effort.

JW's Cajun Boudin Hut
7719 Homestead Rd.
713-635-7380 

You'll be rewarded when you finally do pull up to the drive-thru window at Johnny and Vallerie Washington's little hut here in Houston Gardens. Not only do the Washingtons make some of the best boudin in the city, you don't even have to climb out of your car to get it. JW's Cajun Boudin Hut is drive-thru only, after all—and depending on the day, cash only too (the credit card machine is often down so come prepared).

Even if you do come equipped with cash, that's no guarantee all the dishes listed on JW's menu will be available. Food sells out fast here—including the popular sock-it-to-me cakes, which resemble miniature yellow bundt cakes. Streaked with cinnamon and brown sugar and topped with a sweet glaze, the cakes sell as fast as the Washingtons can make them (they suggest calling ahead to make sure they've got cakes each day).

On my most recent visit, the menu was sold down to just a few basics: turkey wings, turkey necks, and boudin. I grabbed a link of the spicy boudin and some necks—served with pinto beans and white rice—paid $11 for the whole lot, and headed back to the office. While I found the juicy, livery boudin as wonderful as always, with a bright zing of red pepper heat laced all the way through, I found the necks a bit lacking in seasoning. Both they and the beans needed salt (and, frankly, I don't understand the appeal of turkey necks without a good turkey neck gravy), but the boudin was so supremely excellent it made up for the rest.

Anyway, not eating my necks, beans, and rice meant I could take them home and make them into a stew for dinner. After all, there's nothing a little Crystal hot sauce and kosher salt can't fix.

 

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