When you think of Houston-native son Ford Fry's new State of Grace on Westheimer in River Oaks, you probably think of this:

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You'd also be perfectly correct to think of this:

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Here's to the ladies who lunch.

Image: Alice Levitt

But while seafood and society (along with one of the most impressive, hunting-lodge-chic rooms you'll find anywhere) are the obvious attractions, something else stood out to me at a recent meal there: the textbook frites.

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Frites et Béarnaise, sans steak.

Image: Alice Levitt

I think we can all agree that the entrecôte is rarely the best part of an order of steak-frites. That distinction belongs to the crisp, skinny French-style fries. If there's a side of sauce Béarnaise, the hot butter-and-tarragon bath may compete for stardom on the plate. At State of Grace, that was exactly what I got, and I wasn't asking, "Where's the beef?"

The crunchy potatoes are covered in coarse salt and chives. The sauce is as buttercup-yellow and herb-filled as I could hope. It's the best plate of fries I've had thus far in Houston. And I'm pretty sure you want to eat them.

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State of Grace

$$$ American/New American, Southern 3258 Westheimer Rd.

Diners may know James Beard Foundation award nominee Ford Fry as an Atlanta chef, but he grew up in River Oaks. His high school is across the street from Sta...