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Tawa fish fry, $13.99.

Image: Alice Levitt

What’s better than breakfast for lunch or dinner? A taste of eggs far from the pablum that most Americans call our morning meal. That’s precisely what diners get at Spicy Eggs, an Indian egg specialist tucked into the same shopping center as a halal meat market and a Guatemalan restaurant on Hillcroft Road. Owners Mitul and Ashutosh Bhakta donate a portion of every sale to a foundation for the needy in India. And although eggs are in the name, the restaurant does more than breakfast food.

Consider the tawa fish fry.  The chef may be Gujarati, but the phrase "fish fry" can't help but suggest that the dish is a great fit for Lenten dining. Surely, even the pope couldn't resist a big plate of spice-crusted fried fish—especially this one, buried in a thick carpet of cilantro and scallions. A squeeze of lime further lightens the welcome onslaught of chile and garam masala. The fish is served with an oversized pile of basmati rice and a pair of fresh rotis, too, making it an ample meal on its own. But the eggs shouldn't be overlooked. 

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Egg goti gotala, $8.99.

Image: Alice Levitt

Just try not to smile back at this guy.

Chef Ashutosh's goti gotala is a soupy bowl of eggs blended with chiles and spices. Choose red or green peppers, or get both for an extra slap of heat.

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Egg sandwiches with Limca.

Image: Alice Levitt

On a plate filled with pepper-studded omelette sliders, he writes the restaurant’s name in ketchup.

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Green lasan half-fry, $8.99.

Image: Alice Levitt

But it's not all whimsy. The green garlic (lasan) half fry doesn't need anything but its perfectly cooked sunny-side-up eggs, dressed in aromatically spiced green-garlic pesto to speak for itself. Sam-I-Am would need no help selling the virtues of the lusty fried green eggs at Little India’s newest—and one of its most original—restaurants.

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Spicy Eggs Closed

$ Indian 3330 Hillcroft St.

Breakfast is served until 9 p.m. at this Indian eatery. Eggs laced with chiles in every form, from omelettes to scrambles to fried, are the marquis items. Bu...