You won't have to worry about bears while enjoying the porridge at Snooze, an A.M. Eatery.

Someone’s been eating my porridge!

Oh wait, it’s me.

When I was growing up in Pennsylvania and it snowed, my mom would make me Cream of Wheat with just enough whole milk to soften the grains but not enough to disturb the integrity of its delicious, custard-like consistency. Cream of Wheat (which, by the way, is far superior to oatmeal—but that’s a subject for another day) was the only cereal to which I was allowed to add sugar. I did, liberally from a chipped porcelain dish adorned with illustrations from Beatrix Potter stories.

Now that I am growing up (at least emotionally) in Texas, when the temperature falls below 50 degrees, and someone spots a lone snowflake near Katy, I still crave a bowl of warm, cooked cereal. Sometimes, I go retro and relive my Cream of Wheat days, but for a treat, I head to Snooze, an A.M. Eatery.

I go on off hours on weekdays to avoid the long lines, and I can tell the servers are surprised not only that I am eating breakfast at 2 p.m. on Tuesday but also that my order is not a stack of their decadent flapjacks or one of their many rich eggs Benedicts.

A bowl of Goldilock’s Porridge is just as right for me as it was for her. Snooze’s reification of this fairy tale concoction comprises a mix of quinoa, millet, amaranth, and steel-cut oats simmered in almond milk and topped with shaved almonds, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and hemp seeds. It’s a little bit hipster and a little bit traditional, and more than a little bit amazing for its collaboration of textures, plus its nutty and fruity flavors.

I appreciate its heartiness and measured sweetness, as the latter quality makes it a far cry from other “dessert breakfasts” commonly found at popular brunch joints. Consuming a whole bowl leaves me satiated—but not so full as to make me break the next chair I sit on.

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Snooze, an A.M. Eatery

$$ American/New American 3217 Montrose Blvd., #100

This Colorado-based chain is known for its elaborate line-up of morning foods and cocktails in addition to servers outfitted in superhero costumes and capes....