Image: Cory Garcia

“It’s coming together little by little,” the man behind the counter tells me. He then asks me to carefully select a croissant, “like a lobster.” The day is still young at Henderson & Kane General Store, and breakfast is on my mind. For now, I’m skipping coffee, but the croissant sounds exactly like what I need to start off my day.

I see what he means about things coming together. In the middle of the store sits a giant cooler waiting to be placed in its new home. There’s a counter that will obviously be a deli at a point in the future. The space is sparse, but also full of interesting things to look at. There’s Gramen Farm milk, a couple of flavors of Jarritos, and other assorted drinks available for purchase. You can pick between an assortment of old time candies. A sign advertises homemade syrups—vanilla, mocha, and caramel.

Things have come a long way since we last mentioned Henderson & Kane. Their grand opening is planned for the Fourth of July, but they’re already serving up pastries in the morning and a variety of barbecue options at lunch. As soon as you step in, it’s easy to see the potential of the space.

But on this morning, I take my croissant and soda and step out into the already warm Houston morning, taking a seat on one of the benches outside. It’s about as beautifully chill as a Houston morning comes. A few cars pass by and I soak up the sun, listening to the wind and sounds of nature, swatting the occasional mosquito away.

And enjoying the hell out of my croissant. Made in house, it’s got the perfect blend of textures; crunchy gives way to chewy to soft. It’s an incredibly satisfying bite, made all the better because it’s got a great flavor. It’s just the right amount of butter, and in a perfect world where calories don’t count I’d be content to eat a six-pack of them. So lost am I in the flavors and textures that it’s not until I finish and take a look around that I realized my shirt is covered in the shards of a good croissant well consumed.

And so I brush myself off and head out to face the rest of my day, knowing that in time I’ll be back to sample the barbecue and other offerings Henderson & Kane will have. And to find my peace with a simple croissant and a quiet Houston morning.

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Henderson & Kane General Store

$ Bakeries, Barbecue, Café 715 Henderson St.

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