Queso makes the Cooper at FM Kitchen and Bar stand out.

Just last month we told you that the FM Burger at FM Kitchen & Bar is one of our favorite burgers in Houston.

That's true, but now I'd like to devote a few words to the cheesy and juicy Houston wonder that is the Cooper. This burger at FM is a reminder that the best burgers do just a little bit more than what's expected, doubling down on the best ingredients.

In this case we're talking about the bun, a Martin's potato bun that's soft without tearing and flavorful without intruding. It's strong enough to withstand the juicy patty, a few strips of crispy bacon, sliced fresh tomatoes, and the piece de resistance: a generous spoonful of queso that oozes down the burger, creating a pool that becomes the perfect dipping sauce for your side of tater tots. Somehow the burger doesn't get soggy, at least until the last bite. That's almost remarkable.

The Cooper instantly vaulted toward the top of my very unofficial local burger rankings. I paired it with a Brash Pussy Wagon (as I told y'all to do), and the combination made for the perfect Independence Day weekend dinner, spent outside at the Washington Avenue-area icehouse. With the fan blowing mist in my face, nothing seemed to say Houston summer better than this cheesy and beefy mini masterwork.

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FM Kitchen and Bar

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