Mark Holley has taken over the reimagined Davis St. at Hermann Park, which reopened in August. It’s still the same large, comfortable space with floor-to-ceiling glass windows, but the Holley-fied cuisine of Gulf seafood and buttery comfort food takes things to another level entirely. The chef hasn’t lost a step. Among Holley’s seafood dishes, you can’t go wrong with the elegant, fiery scallop aguachile, the whole blackened grouper, or the muddled stew—redfish, clams, jumbo shrimp, hearty pork belly, and grits in a zippy tomato-saffron broth, topped with a runny egg. Elsewhere a harissa-dusted Cornish hen entrée is an exhilaratingly succulent, rich treat complete with perfectly crispy skin, served with a refreshing faro and feta salad.
