take me out

Comfort Food Takeout Guide: Midtown/Fourth Ward

Biscuits and gravy, sandwiches, classic creole, and sumptuous ramen.

By Timothy Malcolm Published in the Fall issue of Houstonia Magazine

Lankford’s Grocery and Market


For the most comforting of Houston breakfasts, pick up the iconic biscuits and gravy, available on Saturday mornings only, from the coziest eatery in Montrose. The warm, pepper-studded gravy comes on the side, meaning you can slather it over your two crusty, golden butter biscuits and sausage patties to eat the dish traditionally, or turn it into breakfast sandwiches. Either way, close your eyes and enjoy every moment of the bite. Reminder: it’s still cash only.

The Breakfast Klub

From wings and grits to veggie omelets with cheddar cheese, servings are large and in charge at Marcus Davis’s iconic breakfast spot. This might even be your only meal for the day. That’s unless you return for lunch favorites like the avocado BLT and tuna salad on toasted wheat. You may miss the overwhelming happiness that pervades the Breakfast Klub dining room, but you won’t miss the line out the door—call to order out.

Brennan’s of Houston

For a big-ticket meal, Brennan’s of Houston rolls out the showstoppers: soft-shell crab, sugarcane-smoked beef rib, and grilled Gulf fish with brown butter cauliflower puree that travels astonishingly well. Everything will still be warm and juicy, whether it hits your china or goes straight from the takeout box to your mouth—we don’t judge.


In a way, comparing Jinya’s offerings with those of other ramen places in this town is unfair, if only because most haven’t quite perfected tonkotsu, the rich, milky broth that Jinya specializes in, a soul-pleasing substance born of long-boiled pork bones. One has not had ramen, we humbly submit, until one has had tonkotsu, and Jinya’s are all terrific, from its thin-noodled black tonkotsu, with flavorful bits of kikurage floating on top, to the assari tonkotsu, whose noodles dwell in the depths below a meltingly tender pork belly. These modestly priced bowls of noodles—neither tough nor limp—can be customized with everything from broccoli to bean sprouts, from extra nori to extra noodles, and all for just a buck or so extra each. Food is served until late at the Midtown location, and they offer pick-up and no-contact delivery as well. 

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