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Comfort Food Takeout Guide: Rice Military/Washington

Sticky ribs, classic burgers, and chicken korma are found here.

By Timothy Malcolm Published in the Fall issue of Houstonia Magazine

Elliot’s Table 

Chef Elliot Roddy plays to nostalgia and big appetites with a restaurant that serves up meals so hearty you’ll think you’re at your grandma’s table for Sunday dinner. You can’t go wrong with his menu: The Thai chile pork ribs pop with sticky, spicy flavor thanks to some chile sauce. The shrimp and grits are soul-satisfyingly salty and rich. And as for the fried turkey club? Roddy could offer the super-thin-cut, crunchy turkey by itself and still sell out, but the eggy brioche bun and a dash of acidity from the additional arugula, tomato, and onions make this sandwich spectacular.

Stanton’s City Bites 

There’s a reason the late Arthur Fong, the welcoming owner of the white house on Edwards Street, was known as “the patron saint of burgers.” Though his wife and kids run the 59-year-old joint today, the griddled burgers are still incredible, from the classic with its usual suspects of mayonnaise, mustard, lettuce, onions, pickles, and tomato to the Cowboy Brunch with fried pickles and an over-easy egg on Texas toast. And always add a side of egg rolls: This is Houston, after all.

Surya India 

At Sheel Joshi’s standout Northern Indian–focused restaurant there’s no buffet (not that this entirely matters these days), but the dishes sure do sing. The decadent cashew cream in his chicken korma is divine, but also consider ordering the Mangalorean dishes—we recommend the lamb version—with a curry that combines the sweetness of coconut and the fire of chile peppers.

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