Arthur Ave had its fans, but if the attendance at the April 11 opening of Helen in the Heights is any indication, locals are excited for Greek food. As at Helen Greek Food & Wine, chef William Wright, a 2017 James Beard Foundation award finalist for Rising Star Chef, is at the helm. That means an eye toward authenticity, but also excellent ingredients and the utmost in craft. But this isn't simply a sequel to Helen, it's an entirely different experience.
As sommelier Evan Turner puts it: "When you think, 'I'm going to a Greek taverna,' which dishes am I going to have?" That's the goal at Helen in the Heights, with its less expensive, less formal menu of small plates, pitas and comfort food.
The atmosphere is similarly revamped. Designer Erin Hicks has reimagined the Arthur Ave space in blues that suggest the ocean, alongside vaguely nautical brick and whitewashed wood wall paneling.
The bar menu, which at Arthur Ave was cocktail-forward, now puts the cuisine first with a list of "food-pairing cocktails." Bar manager Josh Bearden created a menu that includes suggested pairings. We recommend the Juicy Karpuzzi, which pairs watermelon shrub and cucumber tequila with ginger ale and cilantro, eaten with the appropriately refreshing dolmades.