They’re called Pertater Tots, but these fried cylinders of grated potato, stuffed with pulled pork and sharp cheddar, made us think of the most unkosher latkes ever.
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They’re called Pertater Tots, but these fried cylinders of grated potato, stuffed with pulled pork and sharp cheddar, made us think of the most unkosher latkes ever.
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Even the saltines are crafted from scratch with a topping of “green salt” (salt with dehydrated herbs, also homemade). They’re the accompaniment for a jar of pimento cheese topped with bacon jam.
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Even the saltines are crafted from scratch with a topping of “green salt” (salt with dehydrated herbs, also homemade). They’re the accompaniment for a jar of pimento cheese topped with bacon jam.
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But the restaurant’s raison d’etre is charcuterie. This is the “all five,” meaning all of the house-cured meats currently on offer, along with cheese, mustards and pickles. Bresaola, fennel-and-orange salami and coppa rubbed with ají dulce were among our favorites. It’s served on boards made from reclaimed wood in the garage of a Sugar Land Farmers Market vendor.
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But the restaurant’s raison d’etre is charcuterie. This is the “all five,” meaning all of the house-cured meats currently on offer, along with cheese, mustards and pickles. Bresaola, fennel-and-orange salami and coppa rubbed with ají dulce were among our favorites. It’s served on boards made from reclaimed wood in the garage of a Sugar Land Farmers Market vendor.
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The tasso ham, also in the previous photo, figures in the Devil’s Dust Eggs, deviled eggs flavored with sweet pickled mustard seeds and the legitimately fiery house spice blend.
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The tasso ham, also in the previous photo, figures in the Devil’s Dust Eggs, deviled eggs flavored with sweet pickled mustard seeds and the legitimately fiery house spice blend.
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Zerwas works alongside a pitmaster who’s in charge of Bacon Bros. traditional barbecue. The barbecue sampler includes St. Louis style ribs, brisket, pulled pork and sausage. The green stuff? That’s broccoli-cheddar casserole and braised local greens, filled to the brim with pig parts.
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Zerwas works alongside a pitmaster who’s in charge of Bacon Bros. traditional barbecue. The barbecue sampler includes St. Louis style ribs, brisket, pulled pork and sausage. The green stuff? That’s broccoli-cheddar casserole and braised local greens, filled to the brim with pig parts.
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The inland South Carolina location has catfish—Sugar Land has local redfish, served over Poblano-and-cheese grits, and kale with a shower of chunky country ham.
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The inland South Carolina location has catfish—Sugar Land has local redfish, served over Poblano-and-cheese grits, and kale with a shower of chunky country ham.
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Is this the world’s sexiest pork chop? The deeply earthy coffee-rubbed specimen is served over a sweet potato mash with lemon-tossed kale, cider-braised apples and brown butter, not to mention the sweet potato chips on top.
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Is this the world’s sexiest pork chop? The deeply earthy coffee-rubbed specimen is served over a sweet potato mash with lemon-tossed kale, cider-braised apples and brown butter, not to mention the sweet potato chips on top.
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It’s not easy to make a hot dog. But Bacon Bros.’ is as fine a mash of meat as you’ll get from the store, only with twice the girth and better ingredients. The current special is topped with spicy Carolina hash and melted cheese for a handmade take on the chili dog.
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It’s not easy to make a hot dog. But Bacon Bros.’ is as fine a mash of meat as you’ll get from the store, only with twice the girth and better ingredients. The current special is topped with spicy Carolina hash and melted cheese for a handmade take on the chili dog.
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One of the most popular dishes in Greenville, and an emerging favorite in Sugar Land, the B.E.T. features pastrami-cured pork belly with Swiss cheese, green peppercorn mayo, arugula, tomato and a sunny-side-up duck egg.
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One of the most popular dishes in Greenville, and an emerging favorite in Sugar Land, the B.E.T. features pastrami-cured pork belly with Swiss cheese, green peppercorn mayo, arugula, tomato and a sunny-side-up duck egg.
When it comes to a focus on from-scratch preparations of top-flight, local ingredients, Houston restaurants lag behind those of other major cities. But with the soft opening of Bacon Bros. Public House in Sugar Land Town Square, our suburbs appear to be picking up speed.
This is the second location for Bacon Bros., which opened its first in Greenville, South Carolina in 2012. Local operating partner Travis Cook and chef de cuisine Joseph Zerwas are excited to share the food created by chef Anthony Gray with Sugar Land visitors. “I hope guests will find the food at Bacon Bros. as addictive as I do,” Cook says.
Though the restaurant lies on the outer edge of Town Square Place, it’s not easy to miss—just look for the window that reveals a wide variety of meaty preparations hanging as they cure. Once inside, diners continue to be visually stimulated thanks to irreverent, pig-centric artwork.
The comfort food on offer is handmade in-house, and unsurprisingly meat-centric. This is not the place to take a vegetarian friend, though all but one of the salads, including one featuring arugula, strawberries, beets, whipped chèvre and candied walnuts in a mustard vinaigrette, are meat-free. (Um, that’s two.) But if you love eating animals as much as we do, there’s plenty of choice on the Southern-accented menu.
Alice joined Houstonia in November 2015 and has been relishing exploring the city’s vibrant food scene ever since.
She began her journalism career at age 13 with a cult film criticism ’zine. As an adult, stints with WWE Magazine and EatingWell led to her job as senior food writer at Vermont’s alternative newsweekly, Seven Days, in 2008. In that capacity, she became one of the state’s most well-known TV and radio personalities. Her first book, Vermont: An Explorer’s Guide, was published in 2015. Alice has won an AltWeekly Award for Best Food Writing, two Daysies for Best Print/Online Journalist, and two "Top Social Foodie" awards from Burlington Social Media Day.
