Let’s get this out of the way—the French fries, deep-fried in clarified butter, are the missing link between hash browns and movie theater popcorn. They come with a few different dishes, but no matter what you order, get them, too.
Fun fact: They’re called Kennebec Butter Fries, but are not made with Kennebec potatoes.
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The Lady Snow Pea earns its name not just with its garnish, but house-made snow pea soda, combined with white ginger gin and blanc vermouth.
The two glasses at right are actually one drink, Leslie’s Oyster Shell Martini. The $11 extra-dirty sipper is too big to be contained in one martini glass. A seawater tincture brings the flavor of the ocean to Aylesbury Duck vodka and oyster shell dry vermouth.
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The Lady Snow Pea earns its name not just with its garnish, but house-made snow pea soda, combined with white ginger gin and blanc vermouth.
The two glasses at right are actually one drink, Leslie’s Oyster Shell Martini. The $11 extra-dirty sipper is too big to be contained in one martini glass. A seawater tincture brings the flavor of the ocean to Aylesbury Duck vodka and oyster shell dry vermouth.
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Teetotalers aren’t overlooked, either. There’s an old-fashioned soda shop-style pineapple phosphate as well as this cracked-ice-filled glass of blueberry lemonade.
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Teetotalers aren’t overlooked, either. There’s an old-fashioned soda shop-style pineapple phosphate as well as this cracked-ice-filled glass of blueberry lemonade.
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Fried flounder strips, served with sauce gribiche, are fish sticks for grown ups—or discerning kids.
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Fried flounder strips, served with sauce gribiche, are fish sticks for grown ups—or discerning kids.
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Ellis calls this steak tartare an American version of the dish, but with its coating of fried shallots and accompanying baguette, it strikes us as somewhat Vietnamese. But we can’t argue with Ellis’ recommendation of using it as a dip for the butter fries.
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Ellis calls this steak tartare an American version of the dish, but with its coating of fried shallots and accompanying baguette, it strikes us as somewhat Vietnamese. But we can’t argue with Ellis’ recommendation of using it as a dip for the butter fries.
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The pepper gravlax is coated with dill and lightly smoked, ending in a brighter result than your typical plate of lox.
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The pepper gravlax is coated with dill and lightly smoked, ending in a brighter result than your typical plate of lox.
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These puffy tacos are made from blue corn milled specifically for Star Fish. Inside is buttered lobster, pepper jack cheese, avocado salsa, lettuce, tomato and micro cilantro.
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These puffy tacos are made from blue corn milled specifically for Star Fish. Inside is buttered lobster, pepper jack cheese, avocado salsa, lettuce, tomato and micro cilantro.
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Let’s get this out of the way—the French fries, deep-fried in clarified butter, are the missing link between hash browns and movie theater popcorn. They come with a few different dishes, but no matter what you order, get them, too.
Fun fact: They’re called Kennebec Butter Fries, but are not made with Kennebec potatoes.
15
Ever wished your favorite Chinese spare ribs were made with big, juicy hunks of pork? Meet the sesame-glazed spare ribs. The appetizer is big enough for a meal or for sharing, and is accompanied with pickled veggies.
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Ever wished your favorite Chinese spare ribs were made with big, juicy hunks of pork? Meet the sesame-glazed spare ribs. The appetizer is big enough for a meal or for sharing, and is accompanied with pickled veggies.
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It’s important to Mills to have a different take on the Caesar salad at each restaurant. This whole-leaf version is buried in lacy shavings of Parmesan and buttery brioche croutons.
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It’s important to Mills to have a different take on the Caesar salad at each restaurant. This whole-leaf version is buried in lacy shavings of Parmesan and buttery brioche croutons.
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Lee’s Salad comprises chopped greens, hard-boiled egg, toasted almond and cubes of Cabot cheddar in bacon vinaigrette.
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Lee’s Salad comprises chopped greens, hard-boiled egg, toasted almond and cubes of Cabot cheddar in bacon vinaigrette.
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The Beach Blonde, one of two tiki drinks on the menu, combines Plantation O.F.T.D. rum, Hamilton Jamaican Gold rum, macadamia cordial, banana, coconut cream, pineapple, lime and angostura bitters.
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The Beach Blonde, one of two tiki drinks on the menu, combines Plantation O.F.T.D. rum, Hamilton Jamaican Gold rum, macadamia cordial, banana, coconut cream, pineapple, lime and angostura bitters.
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This gin-and-tonic, the Celtic Kavanagh, is tiki-sized itself. It’s delicately fruity thanks to green apple peel Caorunn Gin, but gets its herbaceous flavors from elderflower tonic and torched rosemary.
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Can’t decide between gnocchi and clam chowder? No problem! It’s an unlikely but satisfying combination, an uncommonly hearty cream sauce bolstered with house pancetta. It’s topped with celery leaf salad.
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Can’t decide between gnocchi and clam chowder? No problem! It’s an unlikely but satisfying combination, an uncommonly hearty cream sauce bolstered with house pancetta. It’s topped with celery leaf salad.
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Mills uses New Zealand Ōra King salmon for its sustainability and exceptionally well-integrated fat. This crisp fish is served over horseradish whipped potatoes with tangy French sauce ravigote.
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Mills uses New Zealand Ōra King salmon for its sustainability and exceptionally well-integrated fat. This crisp fish is served over horseradish whipped potatoes with tangy French sauce ravigote.
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The house burger blend is on the fatty side—75:25—and uses brisket, short rib and chuck. The patty arrives on a bun baked for Star Fish by Slow Dough, topped with spicy house mustard. And yes, it comes with those fries.
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The house burger blend is on the fatty side—75:25—and uses brisket, short rib and chuck. The patty arrives on a bun baked for Star Fish by Slow Dough, topped with spicy house mustard. And yes, it comes with those fries.
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There is no set dessert menu yet, as sweets are in experimental phases. They’re all made by Susan Molzan of Cherry Pie bakery Petite Sweets. This cheesecake, topped with decadent flourless chocolate, can convert even a cheesecake hater.
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There is no set dessert menu yet, as sweets are in experimental phases. They’re all made by Susan Molzan of Cherry Pie bakery Petite Sweets. This cheesecake, topped with decadent flourless chocolate, can convert even a cheesecake hater.
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White cake and almond-flavored cream fill the Strawberry Bomb, basically a lighter, inside-out strawberry shortcake.
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White cake and almond-flavored cream fill the Strawberry Bomb, basically a lighter, inside-out strawberry shortcake.
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This gin-and-tonic, the Celtic Kavanagh, is tiki-sized itself. It’s delicately fruity thanks to green apple peel Caorunn Gin, but gets its herbaceous flavors from elderflower tonic and torched rosemary.
Cherry Pie Hospitality’s pantheon of restaurants tends to lean toward the heavy. There’s the sugar rush of Lee’s Fried Chicken & Donuts and Petite Sweets, the carb-load of Pi Pizza and the all-around heft of the cuisine at State Fare. Lighter eaters will breathe a sigh of relief, then, that the group’s latest restaurant, Star Fish, opened late last month with a seafood-focused menu that can accommodate all appetites.
A 300-gallon freshwater aquarium greets guests at 191 Heights Boulevard, the space formerly home to Bradley’s Fine Diner and now redesigned by partner Lee Ellis and Design Hound, on the opposite end of the same shopping center as Pi Pizza. The back wall is dominated by a raw bar, which turns out freshly shucked oysters (we like ours with the Meyer lemon pesto), seafood cocktails and massive chilled platters. Oysters, by the way, are also available fried, grilled or smoked.
Executive chef Armando Ramirez and operating partner Jim Mills have concocted a seafood-centric menu that doesn’t leave landlubbers hungry. Cherry Pie beverage director Laurie Harvey has applied her usual inventiveness to not only a deep, martini-focused cocktail menu, but also a wine list that includes no fewer than 23 sparkling varieties. Click through these photos to see more.
Alice joined Houstonia in November 2015 and has been relishing exploring the city’s vibrant food scene ever since.
She began her journalism career at age 13 with a cult film criticism ’zine. As an adult, stints with WWE Magazine and EatingWell led to her job as senior food writer at Vermont’s alternative newsweekly, Seven Days, in 2008. In that capacity, she became one of the state’s most well-known TV and radio personalities. Her first book, Vermont: An Explorer’s Guide, was published in 2015. Alice has won an AltWeekly Award for Best Food Writing, two Daysies for Best Print/Online Journalist, and two "Top Social Foodie" awards from Burlington Social Media Day.
