First Bite: Bosscat Kitchen & Libations

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There are more than 260 whiskeys from around the world in the cabinet of imbibable curiosities that is the Bosscat whiskey room.

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The restaurant’s eponymous cocktail combines Basil Hayden’s Bourbon with citrus, bitters and a rosemary sprig for a surprisingly light, feminine sip.

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The restaurant’s eponymous cocktail combines Basil Hayden’s Bourbon with citrus, bitters and a rosemary sprig for a surprisingly light, feminine sip.

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How have we never seen fried meatloaf cubes on a menu before? These are crusted in Parmesan, deep-fried and served with tomato-Bourbon jam.

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How have we never seen fried meatloaf cubes on a menu before? These are crusted in Parmesan, deep-fried and served with tomato-Bourbon jam.

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Pig Candy is a dish exclusive to the Houston Bosscat. Cubes of crispy fried pork belly are presented in a rye whiskey caramel (it’s not as sweet as it sounds) with sesame seeds and kimchi.

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Pig Candy is a dish exclusive to the Houston Bosscat. Cubes of crispy fried pork belly are presented in a rye whiskey caramel (it’s not as sweet as it sounds) with sesame seeds and kimchi.

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This madeleine is unlikely to cause a “Remembrance of Things Past.” It’s made from cornbread, and served with a salty, huckleberry-flavored sweet cream butter.

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This madeleine is unlikely to cause a “Remembrance of Things Past.” It’s made from cornbread, and served with a salty, huckleberry-flavored sweet cream butter.

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At right, the 38 Special is named for a note an employee got from his deceased father, along with a gun of that make, that read, “Like life, this pistol has no safety.” Appropriately, the Aperol and citrus drink’s centerpiece is Bulleit Bourbon. The BC Lemonade packs a swift smack of jalapeños along with the burn of Tito’s Handmade Vodka.

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At right, the 38 Special is named for a note an employee got from his deceased father, along with a gun of that make, that read, “Like life, this pistol has no safety.” Appropriately, the Aperol and citrus drink’s centerpiece is Bulleit Bourbon. The BC Lemonade packs a swift smack of jalapeños along with the burn of Tito’s Handmade Vodka.

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Even the baby kale salad incorporates whiskey. In its case, it’s in the form of Japanese whiskey dressing. The orange dots are barbecue-spiced pine nuts.

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Even the baby kale salad incorporates whiskey. In its case, it’s in the form of Japanese whiskey dressing. The orange dots are barbecue-spiced pine nuts.

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OK, it’s not the fennel-stuffed porchetta you’ll find on the streets of Tuscany, but don’t hold that against the stack of fatty, slow-roasted pork stuffed into a soft potato bun of the barbecue porchetta sandwich.

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OK, it’s not the fennel-stuffed porchetta you’ll find on the streets of Tuscany, but don’t hold that against the stack of fatty, slow-roasted pork stuffed into a soft potato bun of the barbecue porchetta sandwich.

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Vegetarians can have a satisfying meal at Bosscat, too. In fact, the black-eyed pea sandwich reminded us of a marriage of falafel and a particularly buttery grilled cheese, illuminated with spicy mayo.

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Vegetarians can have a satisfying meal at Bosscat, too. In fact, the black-eyed pea sandwich reminded us of a marriage of falafel and a particularly buttery grilled cheese, illuminated with spicy mayo.

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Up north, aging maple syrup in whiskey barrels is an emerging trend. Bosscat takes full advantage with its Barrel-Aged Breakfast, a huge fluffy pancake, bacon and duck-fat-fried egg drizzled with syrup that was aged in a barrel from Vermont’s WhistlePig Rye Whiskey.

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Up north, aging maple syrup in whiskey barrels is an emerging trend. Bosscat takes full advantage with its Barrel-Aged Breakfast, a huge fluffy pancake, bacon and duck-fat-fried egg drizzled with syrup that was aged in a barrel from Vermont’s WhistlePig Rye Whiskey.

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Even the sides are over the top. We tried scorched okra with sticky whiskey sauce and Chinese sausage, as well as this sweet potato mac ‘n’ cheese with crispy ham chips.

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Even the sides are over the top. We tried scorched okra with sticky whiskey sauce and Chinese sausage, as well as this sweet potato mac ‘n’ cheese with crispy ham chips.

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Of course there are red velvet churros. And of course they’re served with cookie butter.

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Of course there are red velvet churros. And of course they’re served with cookie butter.

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The chocolate pot de crème with homemade orange shortbread? That’s got Bourbon in it, too.

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The chocolate pot de crème with homemade orange shortbread? That’s got Bourbon in it, too.

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There are more than 260 whiskeys from around the world in the cabinet of imbibable curiosities that is the Bosscat whiskey room.

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Before opening on February 22, Bosscat Kitchen & Libations, co-owner Leslie Nguyen, also known as Miss Bosscat, had loads of work to do. But one particular project filled much of her time—hand-hammering the metal stands for all of the 260-or-so whiskeys mounted on the walls of the restaurant’s 12-seat, private whiskey room.

Her partners John “JT” Reed and Vinnie Capizzi have been devoting similar attention to every detail of the 6,900-square-foot restaurant at 4310 Westheimer Road, just across the parking lot from Eloise Nichols. And they’re not alone. They brought more than a dozen employees with them from their Newport Beach location. All are almost suspiciously sunny (okay, they are southern Californians) and excited to talk about the cocktails from bar director Matt Sharp and eclectic edibles concocted by Peter Petro.

Though many of Petro’s recipes came with him from Cali, ingredients are resolutely Texan. Beef for the signature Bosscat Burger comes from 44 Farms, while pork travels from Black Hill Meats. Kraftsmen Baking provides bread and rolls. What other doses of California sunshine await guests? Brunch is starting in the next few months, and according to one Newport Beach employee, it involves loud music and lots of ice cream.