First Look

Perry's Steakhouse In River Oaks Opens Its Doors

There's much to admire about this first inner-Loop location of a Houston original.

By Timothy Malcolm February 11, 2019

Bar 79 and the lower level of the River Oak's Perry's Steakhouse & Grille.

An anchor at River Oaks Shopping Center, at the intersection of West Gray and McDuffie streets, the newest Perry's Steakhouse & Grille—and its first inside the Loop—demands attention. But what will occupy your senses first? The walls of windows overlooking the neighborhood? The impressive Bar 79 space? The wine closet in the main dining room? 

What about the seven-finger-high pork chop?

There's so much to admire about the 15th Perry's location, which opens Monday for dinner (it'll be open for dinner daily and lunch on Friday) inside a historic location one block from the River Oaks Theatre. As part of the build-out, which began last May and completed a few weeks ago, Perry's practically rebuilt the second floor and raised the ceiling.

"It was open air just a few months ago," said Lesa Sorrentino, chief marketing officer at Perry's Restaurants. "We'll just say that it was very breezy up here."

That second floor seats about 300 in aquamarine and leather-brown tufted booths and comfortable beige chairs, and consists of the main dining room and private dining room, which can be split into three smaller areas. There, large windows overlook West Gray and can be opened completely. Essentially, your private party can be the toast of the neighborhood. Diners inside the main dining room can view the action inside the kitchen through glass windows, or they might just admire the wine closet keeping some of the restaurant's approximately 30,000 bottles.

Downstairs is Bar 79, home to a rectangular bar outfitted with televisions and top-shelf liquor. There's plenty of variety here, from Perry's own wine produced in Napa Valley and Sonoma, to the Hog-Hattan, a rye Manhattan garnished with pork chop bites and Luxardo cherries. For those looking to sneak in a happy hour, Perry's Social Hour (4-7 p.m. Monday-Friday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday) includes $9 bar bites and cocktails. Maybe the best deal of all? Picking three mini-martinis (anything on the cocktail menu) for $15. 

Perry's famous pork chop.

As for the menu, you can be sure a full-senses steakhouse experience. The new digs are perfect for seafood towers, Blue Point oysters, hulking filets, and tomahawks. Then again, if you're heading to Perry's for the first time, you may just have to indulge in the famous pork chop. At seven fingers high, it's carved tableside and served with homemade applesauce. On Fridays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Perry's serves a smaller version for lunch, along with whipped potatoes and applesauce, for $14.95.

"Being that Houston is our hometown ... we knew that our first inside-the-Loop play had to be a special spot," said Rick Henderson, chief operations officer at Perry's Restaurants. "We've looked for years for the perfect spot, and this one came along, and we just felt like this one offered everything that we were looking for and was the perfect spot to go to be our inside-the-loop flagship."

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