The Hay Merchant is arguably the most serious domestic craft beer bar in the country. The kitchen is headed by Antoine Ware, an alumnus of Catalan and the Brennan family’s Mr. B’s Bistro. His cooking goes well beyond the expected bar food or salty, beer-themed fare, making this a worthwhile visit even if you don’t like suds. The fun and well-executed menu includes house-made Wagyu beef jerky; a grilled flatbread topped with duck confit, goat cheese, greens, and onions; and roasted bone marrow. The industrial setting, occupying half of the building shared by Underbelly, is interesting and inviting.