Is it the Tom Cruise–in–Cocktail–level skill of Sarah Troxell and her team of bartenders that has you feeling like you’re on a trip to paradise? Or is it the menu full of fiery, bold Caribbean and Southeast Asian flavors from co-owner Martin Stayer and chef de cuisine Ben Ruiz? Maybe it’s the tiki decor and surf music on vinyl, or fun drinks like the Vamos a La Playa (mezcal, blanco rum, pineapple shrub, lime). Okay, it’s all of those things, but it’s also the freaking adult sandbox out front. Have a second cocktail, and you’ll swear you’re sitting on the beach.