A dusky taverna atmosphere belies the fact that this was once owner Ilias Giannakopoulos’s home. But once we tasted his comfort food, it made perfect sense. We couldn’t help but finish the full plate of kokkinisto, garlicky beef stew served over spaghetti with a shower of feta on top. The herbaceous lamb souvlaki is notable, too, and we loved the crisp fries.