If you’re driving on the uber-industrial stretch of Long Point Road, you know you’re about to find a gem or two. There’s all the usual suspects at this joint, but make sure to turn to the Hidalguense section of the menu, which features specialties from the state of Hidalgo. The fall-off-the-bone barbacoa de borrego is a must: chile-marinated lamb cooked with maguey leaves in a barbecue pit, served with consommé and cactus salad. Packaged tortillas come with, but you’ll want to upgrade to the ones made in-house ($3.40).