Paul Miller of the popular local Union Kitchen chain and chef Paul Lewis, most recently of Osteria Mazzantini and Cullen’s, have teamed up to create an upscale comfort-food destination in the former Haven location. Familiar pairings like barbecue and potato salad are turned on their ear and reinterpreted as plates of smoked pork belly with jalapeño-and-peach jam and a potato salad that would make your grandmother proud. A half-chicken with spaetzle is another triumph of classic Texas cooking, and pairs well with the affordable wine selection.