The beef broth here, simmered for 14 hours, is imbued with all the richness—and sweet, aromatic spices—a pho connoisseur could want. But the magic of chef Danh Le’s Sugar Land noodle soup doesn’t end there. High-quality meats, most notably luscious prime brisket, also make the dish a standout. And don’t overlook the crispy egg rolls bursting with garlicky pork, or the vermicelli bowls suffused with smoke from Le’s excellent charbroiled meat.