With the latest addition to Clark-Cooper restaurant group’s prestigious portfolio, chef Brandi Key’s SaltAir, Upper Kirby now has its biggest see-and-be-seen spot since Armando’s, complete with a massive raw bar selection equaled in size only by the bar itself, which anchors the sleek dining room. Vegetables receive equal attention here—the grilled zucchini atop a squash blossom gremolata is as fine as the octopus carpaccio with house-made taramasalata.