As his namesake restaurant reached its 25-year anniversary, Benjy Levit decided a shakeup was in order. He brought in Seth Siegel-Gardner (The Pass & Provisions) to help overhaul the menu (executed by chef Mike Potowski), while he assigned Aaron Rambo the job of changing the Rice Village restaurant’s look. It’s a clean, modern place with birchwood and pops of sunshine yellow. Potowski has a way with dumplings, and here he fills them with chopped brisket, serving them in a smoked bone broth. They’re great. We also love the strangely light uni carbonara, and we're very cool with the witty chicken three ways (instead of the famous crunchy chicken), because the spicy bird is terrific. But beware: For dessert, the beet “cheese cake” is not that, and it’s not dessert. Luckily, Mom’s Chocolate Cake remains on the menu.