By night, this elegant yet unpretentious Heights hideaway from chef Graham Laborde offers serious gumbo and oyster-shell martinis with ocean-water tincture; at brunch, look for fried-shrimp-and-oyster po-boys and cold-smoked oysters. Grilled snapper with grits and roasted carrots are a favorite, but it's the can't-miss I-10 Tower with oysters, blue crab claws, pickled shrimp, smoked bycatch dip and much, much more that is the highlight of any meal at Bernadine's.