Buey y Vaca is both the name of a Mexican mercado and a restaurant that’s housed adjacent to the sprawling collection of flea market stands on Airline Dr. just south of Beltway 8. Inside the restaurant (only open on the weekends—Sundays are especially busy), you can choose from several different food stalls—or hit them all. Our favorite is El Pechocho, a Mexico City–style barbacoa de borrego vendor. Order a bowl of spicy broth, then tell the taquero manning the booth how many of the falling-apart-tender, chile-braised lamb tacos you want. A nopalito salad comes on the side, as does a pungent herb called papalo (a.k.a. Bolivian cilantro). Add a squeeze of lime, chopped onions, and cilantro along with the papalo, and discover barbacoa tacos Mexico City–style.