Since opening in 2006, “The Wall” has been a neighborhood favorite, drawing an exuberant crowd of wine and food lovers. While the noise level is a little high for intimate conversation, the people-watching is first-rate. The playful take on New American cooking features items like potato chip-crusted Texas fried quail. There are also new riffs on old favorites, such as chicken-fried steak made with corn flakes and beef tenderloin.  Popular apps include a round of roasted brie done vieille école (old-school)—that is, wrapped in puff pastry and baked. The savory beef short ribs braised in root beer are highly recommended and pair beautifully with a pint of microbrewery stout. The wine list here showcases seldom-seen boutique California producers, as well as nearly 20 dessert wines.