In a way, comparing Jinya’s offerings with those of other ramen places in this town is unfair, if only because most  haven’t quite perfected tonkotsu, the rich, milky broth that Jinya specializes in, a soul-pleasing substance born of long-boiled pork bones. One has not had ramen, we humbly submit, until one has had tonkotsu, and Jinya’s are all terrific, from its thin-noodled black tonkotsu, with flavorful bits of kikurage floating on top, to the assari tonkotsu, whose thick noodles dwell in the depths below a meltingly tender pork belly. These modestly priced bowls of noodles—neither tough nor limp—can be customized with everything from broccoli to bean sprouts, from extra nori to extra noodles, and all for just a buck or so extra each. Food is served until late at the Midtown location.