The typical Houston churrascaria attempts to recreate the rustic flavor of gaucho barbecue in an atmosphere of palatial grandeur, but in Brazil, a churrascaria can be anything from a fancy restaurant to a simple beach bar. Nelore follows the more relaxed tradition. Owned by a former employee of Fogo de Chão and housed in a Montrose bungalow, “Nelore” is the name of a Brazilian breed of cattle, though the beef served at the restaurant was Black Angus last time we checked. The salad ingredients are simple, but the side dishes are house-made. Nelore’s servers offer fewer cuts than many Brazilian steakhouses, but that’s a good thing—it saves steak lovers from waving away the chicken and pork chops.