If there’s a Platonic ideal of a Houston steakhouse, Pappas Bros. may be it. At both locations, its dark, wood-paneled interior swarming with crisply dressed waiters shouldering platter after platter of mouth-watering seared beef and all manner of classic sides like creamed spinach and mashed potatoes. Just about any steak you order here will be among the best you’ll get in town. There’s an encyclopedic wine list heavy on French and American reds, with more than a few big California cabs and some French selections that cost more than the car you drove there in.