A seafood sommelier for the crustacean-challenged? A wunderkind chef? At first, Peska seemed too contrived to be charming. Yes, there were literally dozens of varieties of fish and shellfish on the menu, but we couldn’t imagine needing someone to steward us through them all.
The joke was on us, however. Peska’s exuberance is genuine and infectious, thanks to a comfortably chic dining room with a West Coast air, a buoyant atmosphere, enthusiastic service and a menu devoted to seafood like Neil deGrasse Tyson is devoted to science. Most every Peska dish, from ceviche to sashimi, is exemplary in its execution. More than that, chef Omar Pereney's offerings like a surprising shrimp burger at lunch and a coffee-rubbed tuna steak at dinner draw the diner into a conversation—about seafood, and about shattering expectations.