Continuing the curious and seemingly combustible Texas tradition of situating barbecue joints next to gas stations, Ray’s sits in a bright corner of a building attached to a Shell station on Old Spanish Trail. Pitmaster Ray Busch started smoking meat part-time out of a trailer, eventually graduating to this brick-and-mortar joint in 2009. Staples like brisket and pork ribs are consistently great. Try the traditional African American “juicy links,” sausage casings filled with finely chopped beef with lots of tallow and spices. They’re called “Lott’s Links” here, named after a beloved but long-gone neighborhood barbecue joint. The surprise stars on Ray’s menu are the Cajun and soul food specialties; the gumbo and fried catfish sometimes steal the show.