It was local celebrity chef Bryan Caswell who pioneered the use of Gulf bycatch—delicious “trash” fish caught in fishermen’s nets that would otherwise go to waste—and reminded the Bayou City how delicious the seafood can be in its own backyard. At his flagship restaurant, the chef still serves the dishes that made him famous, such as crispy-skinned red snapper with sweet-and-sour chard and brown butter, and roasted grouper with braised collard greens and pecan-shallot cracklins. Although the menu draws influences from across the world, Reef specializes in blending those global influences with wholly Texan ingredients: witness the Filipino kinilaw made with Texas blue crab, or a Chinese hot pot sporting an assortment of Gulf fish in its hot, spicy broth. The restaurant gets noisy at night, especially once the patrons get their hands on Reef’s spiked milkshake, “No Minors,” at dessert.