The half-pound Uruguayan lomo, a butterflied slice of South American tenderloin, is the best thing to order at Sal y Pimienta (“Salt and Pepper”), the new steakhouse at bustling CityCentre in West Houston. Grass-fed beef can be tough by American standards, but S&P’s lomo is right on the money: rich, gamy, slightly chewy, and superior to American tenderloin, whose tenderness can make it mushy. Wash it down with a glass of Tannat, an inky Uruguyan red that tastes like a cross between Malbec and Syrah, and you’ll be living large, Rio de la Plata–style.