Being tended to by white-jacketed waiters inside The Oceanaire’s opulent two-story dining room makes you feel as if you’ve been transported to one of the fancier dining rooms aboard the Queen Elizabeth 2. And that’s exactly what the ocean liner decor means to impart. The restaurant flies in its fish and shellfish every day, and its menu changes to reflect the constantly changing selections. There are a few standards, however, including our favorites, a seafood martini on a bed of kimchi slaw, and the Holland sole à la Florentine, stuffed with crab, shrimp, and spinach. An elegant cocktail menu and well-appointed wine list round out the lavish offerings.