The Pass is the high-end, contemporary dining room where chefs Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner demonstrate what can be done with delicate ingredients and a little molecular gastronomy. The results are fun and often breathtaking. Choose from a five-course or eight-course tasting menu, with or without wine or cocktail pairings. Pricing ranges from $75 per person for the five-course without pairings to $160 for the eight-course with pairings. The menu changes regularly, so don’t count on having the same thing twice. Our visit featured beef tartare with an accompanying “forest” of immaculate hollow bones filled with dehydrated marrow (intended to be sprinkled on top of the tartare); the most luscious combination of egg, truffle and mushroom you’ve ever imagined; and a palate-cleansing nitro-whipped ice cream with cranberry gel and caramel popcorn. Make your reservations as far in advance as you can. If you didn’t, call anyway and try to snag a last-minute spot.