Austin Simmons runs two concepts: small, experimental tasting-menu spot Cureight, which the chef calls “my playground,” and TRIS, previously Hubbell & Hudson (he also ran the kitchen there). In 2018, ownership rebranded and renovated the latter, putting Simmons front and center. The revamped restaurant, which the chef named after his daughter, offers a menu influenced by Simmons’s travels to places like France, Italy, and Thailand. And yes, it is worthy of any celebration. You must get the tender, butter-poached, chile-dusted crab chunks, served on a snappy kimchi pancake with a sumptuous butter sauce and pickled daikon.