Phoenix was in the news a lot this past summer as temperatures there climbed to unbearable heights, even for the most seasoned desert dwellers. Come winter, the sun will mellow just enough to offer the perfect weather for a getaway. With plenty of nonstop flights from Houston, the Arizona capital makes for a quick weekend trip that still feels like a change of scenery.

Phoenix is surrounded by mountains and beautiful desert landscapes, towering saguaros dotting every inch. The city has a vibrant culinary scene, the shining star of which is Sonoran food, a regional Mexican cuisine that’s not often found in Houston. Between meals, enjoy a hike, learn more about Southwestern and Indigenous culture, or take a day trip to Sedona, a scenic two-hour drive away.

Here’s just a taste of what Phoenix has to offer.

Eat and drink

While Houstonians are blessed with food that spans the Mexican diaspora, if there’s one thing we can’t get our hands on as easily it’s Sonoran food. The Mexican state of Sonora borders Arizona, which has become the lucky recipient of its culinary influences.

Bacanora, a nationally acclaimed restaurant serving wood-fired Sonoran cuisine, is the buzziest and hardest-to-get table in town—you may benefit from snagging a reservation before you even book your flight. If that’s not in the cards this visit, fear not, as Sonoran food can be found on every corner in Phoenix. Head to Ta’Carbon for the Hazz burrito, a decadent mix of carne asada, green chile, and gooey cheese, and definitely add a side of frijoles and mesquite-smoked Cambray onions. But what will stop you in your tracks at these establishments is the far superior—sorry, Texas—Sonoran-style flour tortillas they use. This part of Mexico has a deeper wheat-cultivating history than the rest of the country, which has traditionally favored corn. Sonoran flour tortillas, now ubiquitous in Arizona, are almost translucent from the fat, are addictively chewy, and have a depth of taste that elevates them beyond just a vessel for meat and salsa.

But Phoenix isn’t a one-trick pony. The delightful Cocina Chiwas takes inspiration from Chihuahua and is home to a creative menu with an emphasis on live-fire cooking. Make sure to start with the wood-fired elote and a Chiwarita cocktail made with both sotol and tequila. If you’re with a crowd (or just hungry), the parrillada is the way to go, which piles skirt steak, pork al pastor, papas con chorizo, and cheese-stuffed chiles on a plate with rice, beans, and corn tortillas.

Outside of Mexican fare, Phoenix’s food scene is probably best-known as the home of Chris Bianco, who won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurateur in 2022. Famous for geeking out on Arizona-grown durum wheat, Bianco is acclaimed nationwide for his pizza at Pizzeria Bianco, Pane Bianco, and Tratto, but don’t sleep on the team’s housemade pastas. Pane Bianco is a great quick stop for a focaccia sandwich and a local beer before heading to the museums. And if you’re hankering to discover even more of Phoenix’s diversity, pay a visit to Mandi House for Yemeni food; order the fahsa, a deeply flavorful and well-spiced lamb stew that comes to your table still bubbling in its cast-iron pot.

Ready for a nightcap? Phoenix has a creative, albeit pretty crazy cocktail scene with bars featuring wacky ingredient combinations and over-the-top presentations on their menus, to varying results. The pomp is done well at Quartz, where the cocktails are organized by birthstone (which you do not have to follow if that’s not your thing). Try the Amethyst Kaleidoscope, made with sotol, desert mariposa tea, chamomile, tepache, and grapefruit. It has chia seeds floating throughout and is topped with a bunch of fresh sage. Or order the Rohang Ruby, made with mezcal, tequila, Burmese masala, bitter orange, hibiscus grenadine, lime, and fish sauce, garnished with a candied hibiscus flower.

Enjoy the outdoors

Finally, we can go outside. Phoenix’s moderate climate, with highs in the 60s and 70s December through February, makes winter hiking quite pleasant. Papago Park has a handful of red sandstone–accented trails, including the 2.3-mile Double Butte Loop. Across the street, consider the Hole-in-the-Rock Trail (825 feet out and back), which brings you to a cave-like landmark overlooking the city and the mountains. If you want to kick it up a notch, drive to Pinnacle Peak Park and its namesake 3.5-mile trail (out and back), a gradual incline through cacti-dotted desert. Pro tip: The iconic Dreamy Draw Recreation Area, which had been closed for three years due to a city water pipeline project, reopened in September with improved trails and new amenities such as ramadas for shade and even more saguaros.

If you’re a cactus fanatic, head to the Desert Botanical Garden. This 140-acre greenspace is home to nearly 4,500 species of plants, including more than 500 rare and endangered ones. The five paved trails, all easy loops (the longest is a third of a mile), showcase cacti of all shapes and sizes, as well as other desert flora. At the very beginning of the Plants and People of the Sonoran Desert Loop Trail, don’t miss the mutated “crested” saguaro that looks like the cordyceps zombies in The Last of Us and sports just as prickly of a disposition.

Get cultured

The largest visual art museum in the Southwest, the Phoenix Art Museum has a variety of work on display in its permanent collection, including Latin American, Asian, European, western American, contemporary, and modern art. The museum also has a gallery dedicated to fashion design and the second-largest Thorne miniature room collection in the country. Temporary exhibits touch on everything from sculpture to photography; William Herbert “Buck” Dunton: A Mainer Goes West, on show until June 2024, gives a taste of the American West through the Taos Society of Artists member’s paintings.

The Heard Museum is a must for anyone visiting Phoenix, which is on Akimel O’otham land. The institution teaches visitors about Indigenous history through permanent exhibits like its Home: Native People in the Southwest and showcases art by Native Americans throughout its many galleries, from sculpture and painting to basketry and traditional dolls. The Heard sometimes crosses borders: Early Days: Indigenous Art from the McMichael, on view through January 2, is a survey of Native art from Canada in partnership with the McMichael Canadian Art Collection in Ontario.

The expertly done Away from Home: American Indian Boarding School
Stories is by far the Heard’s most poignant permanent exhibit. First-person perspectives, photographs, documents, and artifacts help weave the visitor through a narrative that explains the politics behind the boarding schools, the ways they aimed to strip Native Americans of their culture, and how several tribes eventually reclaimed them to preserve their heritage today.

Take a road trip to Sedona

If you have time, a drive north to Sedona through jaw-dropping red sandstone formations is worth a day trip outside the city. Part of the fun of a road trip is discovering regional gas stations and their unique snacks; you won’t regret your decision to buy that $3.99 box of crispy mini tacos at a Maverik.

Jerome, a copper-mining town turned “ghost town” turned tourist attraction about 40 minutes west of Sedona, is a nice detour for quirky shops and a gorgeous view of desert landscape from the hilltop.

There’s plenty to do in Sedona, but if you only have a day, make a stop at Tlaquepaque Arts and Shopping Village. Once you’ve battled the traffic into town and in the parking lot, the picturesque outdoor shopping center is a genuinely walkable and enjoyable experience. Stroll in and out of art galleries and shop for souvenirs, and make sure to pay a visit to the Chai Spot, where you can sip Pakistani tea on a small balcony and buy specialty candies, spices, apparel, and all sorts of colorful gifts.

Finally, don’t leave town before driving by the Chapel of the Holy Cross, a stunning piece of architecture built into the surrounding area’s red rock buttes. When you drive back to Phoenix, take the Red Rock Scenic Byway to make the magic last.