As a born-and-raised Houstonian, I found the thought of a mountainous desert landscape intimidating—I’m so used to our flat, humid home. Growing up, it was hard for me to wrap my head around the fact that we’re located in the same state as Big Bend National Park, with its high peaks, canyons, and river. But its beauty has always intrigued me.

The 16-hour round-trip drive is why I put off visiting. And who can blame me? No one wants to be on the road for that long. Thankfully, I found a way to break it up over five days, packing in plenty to see and do along the way, from small towns and historical landmarks to a gorgeous cavern.

Day 1

My first stop on my way out of town was the Buc-ee’s in Katy. As always, this Texas staple lived up to its reputation with clean bathrooms. I’m not sure if this is a new feature, but for the first time ever I noticed the bathrooms have lights above them to indicate whether they’re in use. How cool is that? There were also lights at the one in Luling, where I bought an extra water bottle—my Hydro Flask was leaking, and with hiking in my future, I could not be without water.

After emptying my bladder a second time and ensuring that I was equipped for the days ahead of me, I made another stop in San Antonio. Despite my decades as a Texan, I had never been to the Alamo, so I did my due diligence and bought a ticket ($14) to see the iconic, historic building. As someone who appreciates history and reads about it often, I loved going inside. It made me think about what life used to be like, which became a common theme throughout this trip. Following my Alamo visit, I walked to San Antonio’s downtown area to eat at my favorite restaurant there, La Panadería. I grabbed a plate of ranchero eggs Benedict with turkey and took some conchas for the road.

I got back on the road and eventually made my final stop of the day in Sonora. This small town is home to a beautiful cavern that showcases years of geological history. I decided to embark on the Crystal Palace tour ($28 for adults), which is guided by a cavern expert and takes you to a depth of 155 feet below ground with the help of about 360 stairs. Beauty really does lie beneath the surface.

All that walking got my hunger going, so I headed to Sutton County Steak House. Don’t let the name fool you—it’s not like Houston’s steakhouses. The vibe is chill, there’s no dress code, and the sweet staff gave great recommendations. You can’t go wrong with the mozzarella sticks.

After a long first day of travel, I was ready to relax at the X Bar Ranch Nature Retreat in Eldorado (rooms and cabins start around $130). The ranch isn’t your typical Yellowstone experience. My cabin was nicely outfitted with new appliances and came stocked with snacks and juice boxes. Each cabin also boasts cute outdoor patios, which allowed me to sit down and take in the scenic view and non-light-polluted night sky.

Day 2

In the morning, I drove to Fort Stockton while indulging in my conchas from La Panadería. When I told friends I was going to stop there, everyone’s reaction was the same: “What’s there to do in Fort Stockton?”

I was skeptical, too, but was pleasantly surprised by how much I loved the town. I took a pamphlet from the visitor’s center so I could complete Fort Stockton’s driving tour. It took me to 17 different historic points, including an old saloon that’s still in use today, and the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum ($3 for adults), a single-story adobe brick building and former hotel that’s loaded with town history.

After my tour, I set out to find great Mexican food. I enjoyed a delicious plate of birria tacos at Guadalajara Mexican Grill, the perfect meal to hold me over for the remainder of my drive that day. I also needed a caffeine boost, so I stopped at Ru Coffee Co. The shop had just opened but was already buzzing with excitement. The owners were a delight and truly embodied Southern hospitality. I already wish I could go back.

Finally, I was headed to the star of the show: Big Bend National Park. Along the way my phone turned to SOS mode many times. It’s a good idea to have plenty of songs and podcasts downloaded; peep some of our recommendations on p. 44 and 56. I wasn’t exactly prepared and ended up having to go down memory lane with an old 2016 playlist.

When I got to the park, I checked into my room at Chisos Mountains Lodge (rooms starts at $170). It’s the only place you can stay in the park without truly roughing it (by that, I mean camping), though it will be closed for renovations for two years starting in July.  This city girl was shocked that there wasn’t Wi-Fi in the rooms, but I was able to use the Wi-Fi from the visitor’s center to tell my parents I made it there safely.

My next destination was Big Bend Stables in Terlingua, a 40-minute drive from the lodge. Yep, I rode a horse. I was both anxious and excited for this excursion. Luckily, the staff were all incredibly sweet and made me feel comfortable. I rode for about two hours (the tour costs $85) and got to see the desert as the sun was setting. I also learned a lot about the town and its mining history. Our guide was hilarious and made sure we drank tons of water (he jokingly called all the water breaks “tequila time”).

People back in Houston told me Starlight Theatre was their go-to for food in the Big Bend area, so I had to see it for myself. The cute restaurant, located in an old movie theater, had great food, live music, and the nicest staff. I can see why this is a regular stop for visitors.

When I got back to the lodge, I sent one more text to my parents, this time via satellite, to let them know I was OK, and then sat outside on my balcony. I spiraled into a bit of an existential crisis—looking at such a clear night sky got me thinking about all the things that are still undiscovered out there. Maybe we really aren’t alone in this universe? Nonetheless, the beauty was breathtaking.

Day 3

Exhausted from two days of travel, I ignored my alarms one too many times and missed breakfast at the lodge…oops. Too eager to explore to worry about my empty stomach, on a ranger’s advice I decided to take on the Window View Trail and the actual Window Trail. This 5.5-mile hike took me through terrain changes of forest, to desert, to rocks. At the end, it offered an amazing close-up view of the “window” that’s situated within the Chisos Mountains.

It took me about three hours to complete; having started around 10:30am, I finished it during the hottest part of day. Some advice: Take plenty of water, wear sunscreen, and definitely set off on the hike earlier than I did. Per my Garmin, I made a total ascent of 1,281 feet and hit just over 14,000 steps. The beginning is downhill, which is nice, but what goes down must come up. Talk about a workout.

Since I didn’t eat breakfast (again, don’t be like me), I needed to refuel before tackling the rest of the day, so I stopped into the lodge’s restaurant for lunch before setting off on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This 30-mile stretch took me to the Castolon Historic District, a former settlement and trading post where old buildings have been preserved for visitors, and the Santa Elena Canyon. There are some hikes along the way; I opted for a half-mile loop that led me to the Sam Nail Ranch, a former homestead. I then headed to the Santa Elena Canyon to admire the view: The left of the wall is Mexico, and the right is Texas.

I made my way out of the park, soaking in the beautiful landscape of the drive, and into Terlingua again for dinner. At Taqueria El Milagro—predominantly outdoors and BYOB, but with Mexican Cokes for sale—I opted for some al pastor street tacos that helped satisfy the last of my hunger before I made my way back to the lodge for bed.

Day 4

I did not repeat my morning mistake. When my alarm went off, I knew I had to get my butt up, because I was determined to finish my final hike before the brutal sun and the park’s dry heat reached their full strength.

For my final day in Big Bend, I challenged myself to the 4.8-mile Lost Mine Trail. With this one, you start by going up, which I found to be much easier because I used all my energy at the beginning of the hike—in comparison, going down was a breeze. My watch told me I hiked 2 hours and 40 minutes and experienced an elevation ascent of 1,217 feet. The top part of the trail can be scary for those afraid of heights (consider yourself warned), but the views are worth it. On the way out I stopped by the park’s Fossil Discovery Exhibit, which gave me insight into the park’s history and the different dinosaurs that once called it home.

I decided to make my way to Marathon for lunch rather than eat at the lodge again. All the touristy stuff to do in this town runs through the main road where the Gage Hotel is. Per a local’s recommendation, I ate at the newly opened Ghostfire Pizza and got a smoothie from V6 Coffee Bar. I even met some travelers from Fort Stockton who were visiting the town with their golden retriever for a day trip.

Unfortunately, the good vibes from the day flew out the window when I arrived in Del Rio at my next stay. As I began spraying my short-term rental with Lysol (I’m a clean freak) I realized there were mouse droppings everywhere. The pillows were covered in it. I hightailed it out of there and into a hotel.

A good ol’ Ramada by Wyndham (rooms start around $100) came to the rescue. Given the panic I was in from the disgusting things I had just encountered, I might’ve seemed a bit crazy, but the front desk staff was amazing. I think they felt bad for me, because they gave me a coupon for a free drink at the hotel bar, the White Horse Lounge, which was hosting karaoke night. But before I indulged in some much-needed alcoholic beverages, I needed to eat. I made my way over to Cripple Creek Steakhouse. Word on the street was that it’s one of the town’s favorite spots. Based on the multiple prom groups, plus my 45-minute wait, I can confirm this place was popping.

When I arrived back at my hotel, I made my way to the lounge for a margarita, where I was met with a bartender with a heavy pour. Maybe she could tell from my energy that I had had a day. As it turns out, the White Horse Lounge is one of the pregame spots for those embarking on a night on the town. I met some pretty funny characters—I’ll have stories for days.

Once I was ready to call it a night, I was thankful that I was in a hotel with a comfy, clean bed.

Day 5

It was time for the final leg of my trip. I ended my travels in Del Rio with a brisk walk along the half-mile Diablo East Nature Trail, located within the Amistad National Recreation Area. It was nothing like the hikes I had completed in the days prior, and felt more like a casual walk. Due to an ongoing drought, the Amistad Reservoir’s water levels were low, but it was still gorgeous. I hope to visit again and carve out some time for swimming.

Since I’d made the rookie mistake of forgetting breakfast (again!), my first stop when I got to Boerne, just north of San Antonio, was at Cibolo Creek Brewing Co. I ordered the pastrami and, since I’m not much of a beer lover, sipped a nice white wine.

There was an outdoor market in the town’s historic main plaza on the day I visited. (It usually falls on the second weekend of the month.) I browsed through tons of fun trinkets, jewelry, yard signs, candles, and paintings. I also stopped in some shops along the town’s Main Street. My favorite was the Flashback Funtiques, which had unique items like a Rubik’s cube chair, neon signs, a Pac-Man table, an antique Dr Pepper machine, and a Big Boy statue. The old-school decor made me feel as if I were walking into a dive bar, minus the drinks.

After exploring the town (and spending too much money), I drove the three or so hours back and arrived in the Houston area around 6pm. I paid my respects to the Buc-ee’s in Katy again, but this time, for the car wash—by the end of this road trip, my car was like a cemetery for dead bugs. And though I’m so grateful for the amazing experience in West Texas, there is truly no place like home.