Hidden Gems

The San Antonio Weekend Guide You Never Thought You Needed

Go beyond the River Walk on your next trip to the Alamo City.

By Ana Garcia August 17, 2023 Published in the Fall 2023 issue of Houstonia Magazine

The Alamo gets all the attention, but there are four other missions in San Antonio.

Just three hours away, San Antonio is a hot spot for Houstonians. We all know about strolling the San Antonio River Walk, visiting the Alamo, catching a Spurs game, and taking a family trip to Six Flags Fiesta Texas, but there’s more to San Antonio than meets the eye. The city is a beautiful blend of Spanish, Native American, Mexican, and Texas culture. And with that comes plenty of things to see and do that you perhaps wouldn’t notice at first glance.

Take an Instagram-worthy photo with the world’s largest cowboy boots, visit the ruins of a hot springs hotel and soak in your own private bath, or take a tour of the lesser-known missions. For food, the hidden gems are endless: Have brunch and pan dulce at a Mexico City–inspired panadería, enjoy some Tex-Mex for lunch, and end your night with drinks on a rooftop. For your stay, book a hotel along the River Walk that was once a 19th-century brewhouse. 

Here’s what you can’t miss on your next road trip to San Antonio.

What to Do

One of San Antonio’s best-kept secrets is the hot springs experience at Hot Wells Hotel Ruins, a hotel and bathhouse originally modeled after hot springs resorts throughout the United States. Some of its famous visitors were Will Rogers, Charlie Chaplin, Teddy Roosevelt. It has since been a school, a tourist cabin, and a nightclub, but after several fires the site is mostly ruins. It recently reopened as a public park, and you can enjoy the hot springs by booking a private bath experience and hot foot soaks at Camp Hot Wells.

The Alamo gets all the attention, but there are four other missions in San Antonio. Mission San José, Mission Concepción, Mission San Juan Capistrano, and Mission Espada make up the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, all considered part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. They are family-friendly and completely free to visit. If you are up for the adventure, you can bike along the Mission Reach portion of the River Walk and visit all five missions.

Take a visual journey through San Antonio’s history at The Saga, a 7,000-square-foot video art installation downtown. It’s projected on the façade of the beautiful San Fernando Cathedral, the oldest operating sanctuary in North America. Catch the 24-minute free show on Tuesdays through Sundays, through 2024.

Visit the Japanese Tea Garden.

The Japanese Tea Garden has grown very popular thanks to social media. What was once a limestone quarry and cement factory is now a beautiful garden complete with a 60-foot waterfall, a koi pond, walkways, stone arch bridges, an island, and a Japanese-inspired pavilion. The best part? It’s completely free to visit. Get ready to snap plenty of photos, because every single corner of this garden is picture-perfect. On your way out, stop by the garden’s Jingu House cafe for sake, tea, boba tea, coffee, wine, ice cream, and more.

Everything is bigger in Texas, including the world’s largest cowboy boots. Head to the North Star Mall to take a family photo with a 10,000-pound pair of 35-foot-tall boots, created with fake ostrich and calfskin by Austin-born artist Bob “Daddy O” Wade back in 1979.

Have a nightcap and enjoy the downtown views from a rooftop 15 floors above the River Walk at 1 Watson.

What to Eat and Drink

La Panadería, full of charm and warmth, specializes in handmade bread and pan dulce that are worth even just a day trip from Houston. The conchas are bigger than your face, while the top stays crunchy and the inside stays flaky. There are three locations across San Antonio, and any of them makes for a perfect spot for brunch or lunch. Fun fact: the place was featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.

Don’t leave San Antonio without getting Tex-Mex from Mi Tierra Café y Panadería, located downtown at the Historic Market Square. Mi Tierra has been in business for more than 80 years and is known for its colorful decor, pan dulce, Mexican breakfast, famous margaritas, and live mariachis.

Have a nightcap and enjoy the downtown views from a rooftop 15 floors above the River Walk at 1 Watson, which specializes in craft cocktails and Southwestern cuisine. The menu features smoked brisket tacos, Texas wine, and cocktails with from Texas-made bourbon. It’s the perfect spot for a sunset.

Hotel Emma, located in the Historic Pearl District, is a 146-room riverfront luxury hotel that was once a 19th-century brewhouse.

Where to Stay

Hotel Emma, located in the Historic Pearl District, is a 146-room riverfront luxury hotel that was once a 19th-century brewhouse. The hotel is named in honor of Emma Koehler, who kept the brewery going during Prohibition after her husband, Otto, died. When you check in, there’s a beautiful library in the lobby where you get a welcome drink called La Babia Margarita. Make sure you also try the Three Emmas drink—named after Otto’s wife and his two mistresses—at Sternewirth, the hotel’s cozy tavern. If you’re interested in more of the scandalous past, ask the concierge about taking a complimentary history tour of the hotel.

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