Driving to White Sands National Park Is Worth the 800-Mile Journey

The sprawling space and serene views of the Tularosa Basin make for perfect photo ops.
Growing up in Austin, I often took short and sweet road trips with my family to neighboring cities like San Antonio and Houston, but the farthest west we ever went was to San Angelo to visit relatives. Now I know some of the most fascinating parts of Texas can be seen only by committing to a long drive.
There’s a lot of road to cover in the Lone Star State, which clocks in at nearly 270,000 square miles. In February, I set out on the ultimate six-day road trip to White Sands National Park in New Mexico. When taking on a grand 840-mile adventure such as this, the best part is seeing all of the places, landscapes, and versions of that beautiful Texas sun along the way. Cities are few and far between, and at times the only noise I heard was the sound of the wind paired with Khruangbin’s “Texas Sun” blaring through my speakers, as I stared out into the sunset and embraced what seemed like infinite open space.
As they say, the journey is just as rewarding as the destination. But going out west certainly takes some planning. Here’s how to take the best road trip to White Sands National Park.
The Journey
Before you witness the unique natural landscape of White Sands, you’ll have to cross a lot of Texas ground. Head west on I-10, and within an hour you’ll hit a small town called Sealy, where you can stop at Cast Iron Winery for a tasting of five Texas wines for $10. Enjoy the immaculate views from the ranch while sipping a bold camminare noir.

Seed spitting contest at the Watermelon Thump
Image: Courtesy Shelly Moore
Luling, an hour east of San Antonio, is rich in Texas railroad history and cowboy culture. If you’re taking this trip in June, check out the annual Watermelon Thump, a celebration of all things watermelon since the 1950s that includes a market, a seed-spitting contest, and the crowning of a Thump Queen. If you can’t make it, stop and shop at the famous Luling Original Farmers Market, known for selling some of the best produce, including watermelons, in the state.
If you have time, I recommend an overnight stay in San Antonio. This is the last bustling city on the route until El Paso, and once you eat and stroll your way through the San Antonio River Walk, you’ll want to sleep it off. In an area generally packed with tourists and underwhelming Mexican dining options, places like Ácenar and La Panadería are your best bets for an authentic experience in the heart of the city. If you’re visiting in September, make sure to check out San Antonio’s World Heritage Festival.

Join the “Bread Cultura” and stock up on pan dulce at La Panadería in San Antonio.
Image: Courtesy Claire McCormack
After a couple of hours driving through the southern portion of Hill Country, you’ll hit the Trans-Pecos region, the only part of Texas with both mountain and desert habitats. This area lies within the Chihuahuan Desert, which at nearly 250,000 square miles is the largest desert in North America. From here on out, expect to see miles upon miles of relatively untouched deserts and mountain peaks as high as the skies.
Some six hours west of San Antonio, stop at Davis Mountains State Park and follow the Skyline Drive Trail five miles to a scenic overlook to admire the Marfa Plateau looking south and Mount Livermore, one of the highest peaks in Texas, to the west. If you’re up there for sunset, the skies will put you in a trance. Make some time to drive down to Marfa. I enjoyed dinner at the Water Stop and an overnight stay at El Cosmico, an eclectic campground in the area.

Camping at El Cosmico in Marfa has many options, including yurts, tepees, jupe tents, self-camping, and more.
El Paso is a great last stop before White Sands. Make a day of it and grab lunch at La Empanaderia, take a birding tour at Rio Bosque Wetlands Park, and stay overnight at the Plaza Hotel Pioneer Park. The Pueblo Revival architecture mixed with the dramatic West Texas scenery makes this luxury boutique hotel timeless. Have dinner at Ámbar inside the hotel, followed by drinks at the 17th-floor rooftop bar.

Enjoy live music, summer cocktails, and the best views of El Paso at La Perla, the rooftop bar on the 17th floor of the Plaza Hotel.
Image: Courtesy James Baigrie
The Destination
The next morning, I crossed the Texas–New Mexico state line within half an hour, and after another 76 miles, I arrived at my destination. White Sands National Park, made up largely of white gypsum sand dunes, is a unique 275-square-mile natural landscape in New Mexico. You can hike, cycle, take a scenic drive, or pick up a sled at the park shop to glide down the snow-like dunes, though the view alone makes the drive from Houston worth it.
The park is open from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. The entrance fee is $25, or free if you have an America the Beautiful Pass or you’re a family with a fourth grader in tow, thanks to the Every Kid Outdoors program. Pack a lunch, water, and snacks to hold you over for the day, and stop by the Visitors Center upon entering to buy a sled (new or used). Sand sledding is one of the park’s main activities, and if you bring the sled back to the center with your receipt, they give you a koozie as a thank-you gift.

Indulge your inner child and play on the snow-like dunes in White Sands National Park.
Since the park is relatively small, you can easily drive around in less than an hour. You’ll come across several trails like the Dune Life Nature Trail, a short 1-mile loop hike, or the Playa Trail, another easy half-mile hike with outdoor exhibits. There’s also the Backcountry Trail (2 miles), the Interdune Boardwalk (0.4 miles), and the most popular yet strenuous hike, the Alkali Flat Trail (5 miles).
After picking a few dunes to sled down, have lunch at the Yucca Picnic Area, where there are bathrooms and plenty of parking. The park also offers a free, ranger-guided sunset stroll at the Sunset Stroll Parking Area, perfect for nature enthusiasts interested in learning more about the unique geology of the park and its wildlife.

The New Mexico Museum of Space History, in Alamogordo
Stay in Alamogordo at the pet-friendly Classic Desert Aire Hotel, conveniently located 20 minutes from the park. Near the hotel, take a break from the hot desert sun and step into a world of exploration at the New Mexico Museum of Space History.
While White Sands alone took my breath away, I felt exhilarated by achieving such an epic road trip. My younger self would be happy to know that I eventually made it to West Texas to experience what was once a total mystery to me, and now fills my mind and heart with beautiful sunsets and glorious landscapes.