“The best Guatemalan restaurant in Houston” may sound like faint praise, but this rough-and-tumble bakery delivers in its backroom dining area with a wide-ranging menu and big flavor. Start with un tamal de arroz, a soft banana leaf tamale filled with rice and meat and accompanied by a pair of stellar dinner rolls. If there’s still room, get the grill-charred churrasco, then fill a tray with sweet breads to go.