Taqueria Thursday

Morelos, For the Win

Homemade Mexican food at fast food prices

By Paloma Lenz April 11, 2013

 The enchiladas de pollo at Taqueria y Panaderia Morelos came with three corn tortillas generously stuffed with shredded chicken, hidden beneath crema and a hefty sprinkle of grated queso fresco. The smell of the cheese was just pungent enough to cause my mouth to water in anticipation. The salsa verde was more tangy than spicy, just the way I like it. The plate came with arroz y frijoles refritos and I could have eaten a plate of both.

Located at the end of one of many strip centers on Telephone Road, Taqueria y Panaderia Morelos is a haven for hungry souls on a tight budget. The restaurant features platos typicos of the state of Morelos, Mexico, home of such popular resort towns as Cuernavaca and Tepoztlán. The taco stand and bakery offers meals made-to-order and pan dulce for dessert or to take home for breakfast. I usually hate pan dulce because it tends to be so dry, but the Mexican pastries I tried here were pleasantly moist.

The staff doesn't speak a lot of English, which makes the pictures of menu items along the cash register and on a large poster board hanging from the ceiling especially helpful. I settled on my dinner quickly when I spotted a picture of the enchiladas de pollo submerged in salsa verde and smothered in crema mexicana and queso fresco.

With Mexican Cokes in hand, my boyfriend and I took a seat in the rose-colored dining area where a novela played on a flat screen. The Tex-Mex convention of serving chips and salsa to snack on while you wait is not observed here—which was a bit disappointing considering the child-sized lunch I'd had earlier in the day. But, when our orders arrived, my disappointment disappeared.

 The gordita de carnitas featured a sturdy mass of shredded pork perfectly seasoned with garlic and cumin and cooked to tender perfection, along with crisp iceberg lettuce and a refreshing slice of tomato all stuffed into a freshly made gordita. My boyfriend remarked that his mother would have been impressed by the lack of manteca in the masa. We also sampled flautas de pollo, which proved vastly superior to last week's version at Taqueria Allende. The fried corn tortilla flutes, stuffed to the brim with shredded chicken, remained crunchy beneath a layer of crema and queso fresco.

On the way out I grabbed four pieces of pan dulce, intending to write about them all in this post. I nabbed the cinnamon roll, which was moist and airy with just the right amount of glaze—it was more about the bread than the sugary coating. But I have no report on the other three pastries—they were devoured by various members of my family as soon as they spotted the white paper bag. 

Along with three Mexican cokes, our grand total was $24.70.

4324 Telephone Rd, Houston, TX 77087

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