Just a few short weeks after I resigned the food critic position at the Houston Press, I'm pleased to note the paper has found its new critic and chronicler of Houston's endlessly fascinating food scene.
Kaitlin Steinberg, who was most recently a food blogger at the Riverfront Times in St. Louis (a sister paper to the Press), announced her new role in an updated Twitter bio over the weekend. She'll be assuming the food critic position full-time starting in early July.
Steinberg's debut review ran in last Thursday's edition of the Press and tackled the bocce ball and porkobuco at newcomer Brooklyn Athletic Club. In the review, Steinberg wrote:
The pork on the bone was so tender I found myself completely forgoing my knife. And then I found myself with two forks, the salad fork and the dinner fork, one in each hand, stabbing at the amalgamation of supple pork and smoky hash in an effort to get it more quickly into my mouth.
I remained a two-fisted eater throughout my meal at Brooklyn Athletic Club that day. Who cared that outside, games of bocce were going on? Who cared about the more dignified clientele at nearby tables? I was there for the food.
Although she's been living and writing in St. Louis while pursuing her master's degree in journalism from the University of Missouri-Columbia, Steinberg originally hails from Corpus Christi. Margaret Downing, editor-in-chief of the Houston Press, says that it was important to hire a Texan for the food critic role. Steinberg received her B.A. in art history from Trinity University in San Antonio in 2010 and is currently preparing to defend her master's thesis. Her food writing has been published in Vox Magazine and Savor Missouri.
A persual of Steinberg's writing for the Riverfront Times shows that she's currently interested in, among other topics, cured meat and cocktails—both of which she'll find in abundance here. Welcome to Houston, Kaitlin! We hope you came hungry.