Coconut baklava was a new one on me. I fought over a square with my kids who pronounced the coconut and cashew filling "chewy and gooey." At Phoenicia Market on Westheimer west of Kirkwood, there are baklava sorted by nationality (Persian and Turkish), fillings (pistachio, walnut, coconut, and chocolate), and shapes (fingers, rolls and squares). I counted a dozen varieties. But there are also lots of related sweets made with the same ingredients, so it depends on how you count.

I got a square of walnut baklava with a cappuccino and sat down in the cafe section to enjoy it while my kids ate chocolate eclairs. I can't say it was the best walnut baklava I have ever tasted. The walnuts were a little too dry and stuck together and then the crust fell off as soon as I touched it with a fork.

My Croatian and Bosnia friends have spoiled me on the Turkish dessert. They trade notes on restaurants and cafes with especially good homemade-tasting baklava and with their help I have learned to tell the difference.

And yet, when I eat baklava, it's almost always at Phoenica. Pretty good baklava still tastes great. And there's a lot to be said for variety.