Huevos rancheros con fajitas is the Tex-Mex answer to steak and eggs. The tasty version served at La Mexicana on Fairview at Montrose comes with frijoles refritos and your choice of flour or corn tortillas for $10.95. The fajitas may have been cooked on the griddle instead of the grill this early in the day, but they were still pleasantly flavorful—and the over-easy eggs in mellow yellow chile sauce were perfectly cooked.
The flour tortillas are made fresh to order. As soon as you sit down, two excellent salsas, one red and one green, come to the table in miniature molcajetes with a basket of chips. The coffee isn't great, but its strong enough to be passable. All in all, it's an amazing breakfast. The extensive breakfast menu offers huevos con machacado, huevos con chorizo, and several variations on huevos rancheros with such arcane add-ons as carne guisada, pork chops, or barbacoa.
In the past few months, I have been so caught up with the novelty of bo ne, the intriguing Vietnamese steak and egg dish served on a sizzling "comal," I temporarily forgot about the wonders of the Tex-Mex take on a beefy breakfast. And I must confess that my loyalty to Los Dos Amigos on Washington Ave. has also interfered with the on-going work of sampling other Tex-Mex breakfasts.
This morning, the charms of La Mexicana put an end to all that. The restaurant is celebrating its 31st birthday, and the years are wearing well. After the Formica counters and diner-like simplicity of Los Dos Amigos, I found the Mexican tilework, hanging Mexican crockery, flower pots, and candy display on the cashier's counter at La Mexicana a refreshing change of pace.
I was extremely happy to find Glorias, my favorite Mexican candies among big bowls of sweets. Glorias are a regional specialty of Monterrey, made of goat milk caramel rolled in pecans. They cost a dollar each, but eat one at your own risk—while they are delicious, they are also extremely habit-forming.