One of the subtle joys of barbecue is how easy it is to order. Pick your number of meats, pick your sides, add a drink and boom you’re done. It’s straightforward, much like the meat itself is much of the time. Once you know the meats you love, ordering becomes automatic, something you could do in your sleep in any number of barbecue joints across the state.

Jess DeSham Timmons gets it. As co-owner and pit “mistress” of The Caboose BBQ in Alvin, she knows that you can get brisket at any barbecue place you want. Those looking for an excellent one- or two-meat plate are going to be well-served by what The Caboose is cooking up, but Timmons is also using her meat knowledge to create some options that are a bit more fun.

Look no further than the chicken fried ribs to see what I mean. The idea is simple: Why toss your leftover ribs when you can dip it in batter, drop it in the fryer, then serve it with a tabasco mash honey? The result is wonderful, the breading perfectly sticking to the ribs while not overwhelming it. It’s a nice melding of the meaty goodness of the ribs with the texture and added flavors brought from the breading.

Also adding to the fun is a new series of hot dogs The Caboose is rolling out soon. The dogs are smoked and covered with a variety of toppings, including one that really impresses with the inclusion of their Alabama white sauce. For my money, the big winner is their dog topped with fried chicken and gravy. Gravy is something I’ve never considered on a hot dog before, but works with the smokiness of the dog and flavor of the chicken to satisfy.

Timmons and company have a good thing going in the old building that used to be a DMV, the very same that she got her first driver’s license. They’ve made excellent use of the space, including a killer patio that they’ve got big plans for come the fall. Whether you want your meat simple or with a bit of whimsy, The Caboose has got you covered.