Since Covid-19 isn't going away any time soon and restaurants continue to stress alternative options to dining in, we'll bring you each week a roundup of takeout dinners recently enjoyed by dining editor Timothy Malcolm.
Goode Company started a pop-up fried chicken business called Goode Bird during the pandemic, touting half (five-piece) and full (10-piece) orders of crispy bird with plentiful sides, including mashed potatoes, pimiento macaroni and cheese, collard greens, fried okra, and hefty biscuits. I can't recommend the chicken over places like La Lucha and Lucille's, and for a quick fix, I'd rather get my two-piece with a biscuit at Frenchy's, but for a midweek family meal, Goode Bird does the trick. I'm most fond of the mac 'n' cheese, whose viscous sauce coats each piece of pasta, and the fried okra makes for a perfect midnight snack. The biscuits are good, too, and come with cups of butter and strawberry preserves.
For easy comfort via Indian cuisine, there's always London Sizzler and its menu inspired by the Indian food found throughout Great Britain. Happy food like the brilliantly red-orange paneer tikka masala is best scooped up on naan (we recommend the garlic bullet, which is baked with chopped green chiles and garlic butter) with a fistful of jasmine rice. Or you can bring some heat with the medium goat bhuna masala, its meat presented on the bone in a broth heavy on masala and cumin.
One weekday afternoon I opted for lunch at Politan Row, and with fewer traffic on the streets, the place was a little more barren than usual. But the food still kicks, and I very much recommend Kin and Cochinita & Co. as my favorite spots here. Turning my head, though, was the Salchipapa Nikkei at Masaru Fukuda's Pacha Nikkei, which attempts to showcase Nikkei cuisine, or the fusion of Peruvian and Japanese. A salchipapa dish, combining a stalwart Peruvian snack food of fries, sausage slices, and sweet sauces with Japanese ingredients like bonito flakes, furikake, and togarashi, is a perfect way to illustrate the abilities of Nikkei. Of course, it's a tempting snack for lunch ... and especially later at night.
Patrick Feges and Erin Smith have been hustling like crazy over the pandemic. The Greenway Plaza location was open, then closed for a spell, then reopened and is now seeing more customers. Meanwhile the couple has been operating pop-ups to boost business and holding down a spot at the Urban Harvest Farmers Market while somehow planning a second location in Spring Branch ... and also raising a family. Despite all this running about, the food is as good as ever. Recently, a lunchtime chopped brisket sandwich topped with pickled jalapeños, pickled onions, and lip-smacking Texas gold sauce (a combination of vinegar and mustard) was the perfect cure to get over a long weekend, and I balanced out all that meat with a side kale salad.