The Italian food in Texas and Louisiana has long taken its cues from old-fashioned Sicilian. Chef Marco Wiles bucked tradition when he opened Da Marco, a cozy Montrose trattoria that serves food that might remind you of the modern Italian cooking style of Mario Batali in New York. Da Marco and its two sister restaurants, upscale pizzeria Dolce Vita and salumeria Poscol, are havens for Houstonians who love risottos, salumi, thin-crust pizza, and all the other delicacies of Northern Italian cuisines. Da Marco’s seasonal celebrations are highly recommended; this year for the holidays, he’s teaming up with Italian chefs to recreate the menu of a Venetian restaurant.